Better Together? No, I’m not referring to Jack Johnson’s song on his “In Between Dreams” album. I’m referring to the old saying that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. This is the magic that happens when two things come together to make something superior. Reese’s may argue it’s the combination of peanut butter and chocolate; film fanatics may argue it’s an intense movie scene scored with a brilliant song, like the opening to 2001: a Space Odyssey or the race scene in Chariots of Fire (though I’d vote for the Dazed and Confused scene where Randall “Pink” Floyd and his entourage enter the Emporium in slo-mo to Bob Dylan’s “Hurricane”) and the wine and food lover may argue it’s the perfect pairing of the two.
Although all are great matches, I’m impartial to the latter. No doubt that wine and food are great as individuals, however, there is something tremendous that happens when you bring the two together. There are a slew of classic pairings to explore like Port and Chocolate, Sauvignon Blanc and Goat Cheese, Zinfandel and BBQ and even Champagne and Potato Chips (Lays works the best)(This pairing works even better when you put Crème Fraiche and caviar on top of the chip.) Each of these has the potential to reach a higher level of enjoyment when paired together. However, there is one classic pairing I recently revisited that cannot be missed. It’s the combination of blue cheese and a Sauternes style dessert wine.
Don’t let the word Sauternes (saw turn) throw you off. It’s simply a region where the grapes that make these wines are grown. Remember, Europe’s wines are typically named by their location, while wines in America are typically named by their grape varietal. Sauternes is a region in Bordeaux where only sweet white wines are made using Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. Additionally, the winemakers encourage a mold (yes, mold) to affect these grapes. Also known as Botrytis, this Noble Rot dehydrates the grapes, concentrates the sugars and imparts intense aromas of apricot, honey and vanilla.
Thankfully, this mold is not exclusive to France. Sauternes style dessert wines are made all over the world. If you’re in Napa or Sonoma, look for a wine with the word Botrytis on the label. Robert Mondavi Winery and Arger-Martucci both make one, Beringer has one called Nightengale and Darioush’s version is named his after his wife, Shahpar. If you’re looking for a German example, scan the label for “Trockenbeerenauslese,” (more fun to say than Volkswagen’s marketing campaign of the 80’s). This word simply translates to “dried grapes affected by Botrytis.” If you’ve recently Netflixed the Usual Suspects and are looking for Keyser Soze’s hometown version of Botrytis, have Kobayashi recommend a Hungarian Tokaji Aszu. Keep in mind that each of these countries may use a different blend of grapes and present their own twist, however, all of them will make this wine from grapes affected by Botrytis.
When pairing a Sauternes style wine with blue cheese, I recommend spreading your favorite (mine is Maytag) on sliced walnut bread with fresh honey drizzled on top. Add your favorite Foie Gras to this duo and you now have my version of the Holy Trinity. “Alright, Alright, Alright.”
Kevin Toomajian - Senior Wine Educator
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