Makes about 3 pounds
1 3-pound wild California salmon fillet
3 Meyer lemons
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons cognac
2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
2 tablespoons coarsely cracked white peppercorns
Using fish tweezers or needle nose pliers, remove the pin bones from the salmon. Trim the thin flap of meat near the belly.
Finely grate the zest from the 2 of the lemons and squeeze enough juice to measure 1/4 cup. Thinly slice the remaining lemon and set it aside. In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, oil and cognac; set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, salt and white pepper; set aside.
Cut a piece of cheesecloth as long as the filet and three times as wide. Rinse the cheesecloth to remove any loose threads and cloth particles, squeezing it dry. Spread the cheesecloth in a nonreactive pan large enough to hold the salmon. Place the fillet on the cheesecloth, skin side down. Generously brush the filet with the lemon juice mixture. Coat with the sugar mixture, and then evenly distribute the lemon slices on top. Fold the cheesecloth over the salmon, tucking the edges under. Place another pan large enough to fit the salmon on top, directly on the cheesecloth. Weigh the top pan down with about 10 pounds of canned goods or bottled liquids. Refrigerate this whole set up for about 3 days, until the fish is firm and slightly opaque.
To serve, brush off the curing mixture and slice thinly.